Unsticking A Transmission Governor Fj Thread starter chainstay23 Start date Sep 9, Anyone have any advice on how to unstick a governor? Supposedly mine is stuck. It's a brand new transmission, not a rebuild, and the shop claims it's been sitting for several years and the governor is stuck.
It doesn't down shift and sometimes doesn't up shift. I've been driving it manually for a few days but no luck. Everyone I've asked about it says I'll be in the bushes or picking up pieces of my tranny from the road. Has anyone ever tried this method? Thank a lot! I am led to believe that jamming any auto into park while driving will cause major damage. I would also suspect that you would be picking up pieces outta the road.
I always thought that the downshifting was controlled by a cable, I believe it attaches to the Throddle Body. This could be out of adjustment I hate auto trannys so I never learned anything about how they work.The FORDification. Quick links. C6 Modulator Clutch, transmission, rear axle. Post Reply.
Is there a way to test the modulator valve? I have a F just recently the truck when you romp on it would stay at 40 mph and not shift and on another occasion I was climbing a hill and the truck wouldn't go faster than 50 mph.
When before it would pull 70 on it. If you just drive it normally it seems ok.Ford C6 Teardown
It seems to happen when it kicks down. I did have a bad dist vac modulator it was ruptured and the timing was off I fixed both. It seems a little better but it still doesn't seem to be shifting the same as before.
It is like the engine is hauling ass but the truck isn't. Does this sound like a trans prob it just started about a couple of weeks ago. Contact Dragon. Yahoo Messenger. The modulator positions a valve so the fluid at high vacuum does not jerk the tranny into gear. At low vacuum it allows the full force of the shift pressure to kick the tranny from one gear to the next.
At high vacuum another part of the same valve will cause the tranny to shift by being in the position to allow fluid to move to the shift valves. Get a hand vacuum pump and take the modulator out and pump the handle the valve spool will move into the modulator body.
It sounds like the tranny is not getting several signals. The governor is not forcing a shift nor is the modulator allowing a shift. How clean is the fluid. My Gallery Spark test. In no particular order I would humbly suggest checking the following items: Transmission fluid level. Transmission fluid temperature if possible Too hot will cause problems.
Transmission fluid cleanliness. Transmission fluid filter condition. Transmission modulator operation diaphragm integrity as well as actuator movement Vacuum leaks at ALL components AND HOSES I know I emphasized this for your timing issue but vacuum is too often overlooked when troubleshooting transmission shifting issues. I'm not hung up on vacuum, it's jusy really important. It could very well be that the vacuum signal from your carburetor port to your transmission modulator is intermittant or weak for some reason.
Internal wear of transmission clutches or bands I do not know which terminology Ford uses for their transmissions. Torque converter operation by determining transmission fluid pressure with an auxilary pressure gauge. I don't know what proper pressure would be but someone else here most assuradely does. Keith seems to know more about these Fords than even old Henry himself.
Unfortunately some of these troubleshooting processes will require you to spend money for an indeterminate outcome. Interal wear of transmission components and transmission filter condition requiure you to replace suspect parts with known good parts in order for defective parts to be identified.
Not fun I know. Good luck.You can be methodical and cover all the bases during a rebuild and still things can go wrong. As with just about […]. Although I focus great attention on how a transmission is built, installation and proper adjustment after the unit is installed are just as important to durability and longevity.
To get longevity and durability, a transmission must be properly installed and adjusted, which means a methodical approach to getting a fresh transmission into service. Think of a torque converter like a water wheel in an old saw mill: the waterwheel is driven by fluid in motion.
A torque converter works on the same principle—a fluid coupling or clutch […]. Automatic transmission function, in theory, is simple.
Differences Between the C6 and AOD
In practice, it is quite complex and has been worked out by powertrain engineers determined to give you smooth and reliable operation for at leastmiles. To get there, you have to have a hydraulic control system that gives you all those things you want and expect […].
It is a heavyduty 3-speed […]. Versions of the C4 have also been produced for big-blocks. For the sake of simplicity and space I primarily cover a C4 teardown in this book.
C4 teardown technique generally applies to the C6 as well, though there are some distinct differences in the ford c6 transmission and ford c4 transmission. Because automatic transmissions encompass dozens of tiny parts—clips, balls, pins, valves, springs, and other items—your workspace must be well-lit, neat, orderly.
Ford had a fundamental challenge to its direction and future in the late s—how to shed a stodgy image and dated technology.
This effort began with a new generation of skirted-block FE-series V-8 engines in InFord introduced its lightweight-iron Falcon and Comet sixes. The degree Fairlane small-block V-8s followed in Prior […].You can be methodical and cover all the bases during a rebuild and still things can go wrong. As with just about any type of troubleshooting, begin with the simplest item first and work the problem from there. The first thing to do is find out whether the transmission works.
With the engine running, does the transmission engage when you put it in drive or reverse? If not, immediately shut off the engine and check the transmission fluid level. Is there fluid on the dipstick?
You want a half-stick reading because fluid expands as it warms. Operating temperature is to degrees F. The absence of control pressure to components happens for several reasons: pump not making pressure, torque converter cavitated, stuck pressure relief valves, manual shift valve not working, valve body malfunction, failed servo piston, or failed clutch piston seals to name a few possibilities. If there is fluid on the dipstick, check the manual shift valve, which is where control pressure begins.
Transmissions that are overfull tend to foam or aerate causing air bubbles to be drawn into the torque converter and pump, which causes a great disruption in control pressure. With the engine running, listen closely for abnormal noise such as torque converter improperly seated, which can cause squealing, no control pressure, and an inoperative transmission.
At the same time, it damages the pump, sending metal particles into the system doing further damage. If you liked this article you will LOVE the full book.
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Click the button below and we will send you an exclusive deal on this book. The following are common symptoms and their likely causes. Low fluid level. Manual shift linkage between car and transmission improperly adjusted. Manual shift valve inside transmission pan not connected or stuck. Pressure relief valve or valves unseated or missing. Forward clutch pressure leak or improperly assembled air check clutches by removing the valve body.
Blocked filter. No Upshift Governor valves malfunction. Governor improper installation on the output shaft is the drive ball in place? Shift valve jammed. Intermediate servo malfunction. Broken or improperly assembled roller clutch.
Early or Late or Upshift Vacuum modulator or rod malfunction. Valve body malfunction.
Ford Automatic Transmission Overhaul and Repair Manual - C3, C4, C5, C6, AOD, ATx, FLC, AXOD
Governor malfunction. Loose tubes on governor distributor. No Reverse Low fluid level. Manual shift valve out of adjustment. Vacuum modulator malfunction or failure. Valve body assembly error.
High fluid level foaming. Faulty vacuum modulator.Level 3 5RW 3. Level 4 5RW 5. Level 3 6R80 1. A4LD Level 3 A4LD 3.
AOD Level 2 AOD 7. Level 3 AOD 8. Level 4 AOD 9. Level 1 AOD 3. C-6 Level 2 C6 2. Level 3 C6 6. Level 4 C6 5. Adapters Bands Bushings Center Supports 2. Clutch Modules Clutches 4.
Conversion Kits Coolers Drums Electrical - except solenoids The FORDification. Quick links. C6 transmission diagnosis Clutch, transmission, rear axle. Post Reply. I need some guru answers to potential problems with my Tranny.
The background is I have a with a engine mated to a C6 transmission. The truck sat for 11 years outdoors and now I am trying to get it running again. On the return trip in front of my housethe transmission went into nuetral. The lever was still in D, but nothing going to the rear wheels. All of the selector positions, including park, have the same effect nuetral. With it in Drive, I gave it a little gas and it clunked into gear and we were off again. Now all the gears work again, but there is a whirring noise coming from the transmission.
The fluid level is good. Any thoughts on the best place to start? Could it be a vacuum thing? Contact fordman.
Yahoo Messenger. The pressure seems great. Took some fluid out and I am exactly at the line now. Whirring sound was no longer there. Took the couple block trip again and it seemed to perform flawlessly. Still don't have trust that too much fluid caused my previous problem on a two block trip, but I'm no mechanic.
There was a small whine almost turboish on this drive and since is my first drive in it in 11 years, I can't remember if that was always there. It honestly is faint, high pitched and sounds just like a turbo spooling up, but did not change pitch with changes in rpm or speed.
Granted my speed varied from mph and it only hit second once in the 2 minute drive, so rpm and speed were not significantly changing. My first thought when I couldn't get any gears was linkage. I figured some bolt had rusted through and snapped from her extended vacation from use, but the linkage external was connected and operating.Ok, we had an issue with my step dad's ford f 4x4.
It is an extended cab, with a v-8, that a couple weeks ago revved up on its own, which has since been fixed. It was due to a sticking throttle cable, but, when it revved up, the transmission jumped into reverse on its own. Since then, it has happened a couple of times, even with the sticking throttle issue resolved. My question is, has anyone ever heard of this happening? If so, how common is it, and what are possible fixes for this issue? Hi, biggman! A Ford E4OD shift problem like this can be solenoids, wiring or sensor issues.
There is a PCM powertrain control module that can throw codes. Use your Snap-On MT to read codes if possible. Let me know the codes thrown. Pleased to help, the first step is any codes thrown, I checked the flow charts for your symptoms, there are peripheral problems and not anything "specific" to what you describe.
I went to move my step dad's ford to the side of the garage, where it usually sits. The shifter was in park, and the engine started up fine, but before i could do anything, i watched as the shifter jumped into reverse, and the truck tried to jump backwards. Luckily i had my foot on the brake, and it didn't go anywhere.
I thought maybe the throttle sticking was why it kept jumping into reverse, but i have since fixed the sticking throttle, and twice now it has done the same thing to me. I have checked the linkage, and found nothing out of place there, and no bad bushings, so i am at a loss. A few months ago there was an issue where the starter solenoid would just engage on its own and start the truck.
From what you describe, "The shifter was in park, and the engine started up fine, but before i could do anything, i watched as the shifter jumped into reverse, and the truck tried to jump backwards. Chock the wheels, set the parking brakes, drop the transmission pan and drain the ATF. Have someone move the shifter from Park down through Reverse to Neutral, then up again. Note the movement of the internal linkage, check for loose retainer nuts or roll pins.
Make sure the parking pawl engages in Park position, test by rocking the truck. The pawl should lock the transmission output shaft from rotating. Your problem is a transmission not fully engaging Park.